“The kitchen is making its noodles by hand, long and gently curly, and cooking them perfectly. The beef noodle soup sports a brown broth so rich with spices that its aroma hits the nose like an explosion. There are tender, flavorful slices of beef shank, bok choy, bean sprouts and scallions. Hot peppers hidden somewhere in the broth make their presence felt, as does the richness of bone marrow. It’s wonderful.”